CHRISTIE'S BEST OF 2008
Ahh, Tikis. We had a great run on the last trip of the year. People write this wave off as being too soft, too slow, too....whatever. I disagree. I think it's the most consistent, easily surfed, rippable and unthreatening of all the "bigger waves" in the WavePark. Put it this way, it's the spot we take our new guests to when we want to see what kind of waves they're up for the rest of the trip. Good for all levels and for one week at the end of October, PERFECT no matter who you are or where you come from.
I won't forget this session from 2008. Everybody was frothing to surf Rifles so I had them drop me off at Kandui. The offshore kicked in just enough, the sun came out, just me, one guest and our chef. This photo also sums up for me part of the exhiliration of surfing this spot. Every wave breaks on the whitewash line of the wave before it, like a machine. If you ever want to empty your pancreas of adrenaline, come and surf Kandui.
This photo from Alex Williams sums up our beach pretty well. This is a small section of the beach as you walk up the point to Hideaways. The sand is like snow, and you can sink up to your shins in it sometimes. A great swimming lagoon just offshore as well adds to the fact that we have one of the nicest beaches in all of Mentawai, and most of South-East Asia.
This is the view you get walking along the beach 5 minutes from the bungalows when Hideaways is doing its thing. I don't think I need to say much more.
There's just something about this picture, the lighting, the perfection, the surfer's pose. If I had to try and explain what surfing felt like, I would probably just shut up and show this photo. This is what we're all about.
Jared, Jared, Jared. Aside from being a good mate and a great chef, Jared joined our group of those that really looked forward to the bigger stuff. From my hometown of Gisborne, Jared certainly represented SRM in the lineup. This particular shot is of a wave that we surf only a handful of times a year, and prior to this day I had NEVER seen it over 4ft. We call it Corners, and, as Alice mentioned, it most certainly is not "Baby Kandui". Not on this day anyway.
Dave helped to create this beautiful picture with his style and hand jive. It's hard for me sometimes to explain why I like a picture. I think on this one it's the dramatic shadow on Dave's board and face, the feeling of speed and motion and I get the sense that this moment is why Dave travelled for 24 hours non-stop to get here.
Andy and the Billabong circus came to town after the Bali "Somewhere" contest. We had a good morning at Bankvaults, and I particularly like this photo of him getting the finger from somebody on the shoulder.
Big Keiry caught this big fish the day after my birthday. I think it fed 20 of us for 2 meals and a sashimi appetizer. It doesn't matter how big those spanish mackerel get, they stay tasty no matter what. Keiry ended up with a sore back reeling this sucker in, it was foul hooked just behind the gills which gave it the ability to swim sideways against him.
Reubyn Ash showed up on a Carve Mag trip and blew me away with his go-for-it surfing style. He was trying things that I haven't seen any other pros try, not even the CTers. It was also interesting for me personally, having had fantasies about competing, to hear what life is like for somebody chasing that dream.
This photo pretty much sums up Jamie's time as surf guide in 2008. This is the second-to-last photo in a 15 shot sequence where Jamie has disappeared into a Kandui cavern, been spat out, overcome a foamball on the second section, and here succumbing to having his fins taken out from under him by the merciless speed of Kandui. It was great to have a partner out in the lineup, and a privilege to work with my good friend for a season.
For 2008 and me personally, this photo sums up the challenge that I had made for myself: To learn to ride the tube backside with no hands. Luckily my goal coincided with one of the best Kandui Left seasons in many years, so I was presented with numerous chances to fumble and learn. Coming screaming out of a spitting Kandui barrel with no hands on the rail will remain the benchmark for my surfing to move forward with.
This image for me again represents the perfection of one of my favourite waves. You have to be very lucky to score this wave good on your trip out here, but in 2008 the odds were good.
My good friend Tommy from South Africa shared a session at Rifles and put some of his J-bay training to the test. This image shows a slightly wild side to my favourite wave. Although it seems "perfect" you can see how heavy it really is by the thickness of the lip about to throw over Tommy, not to mention the boils waiting for him to dig a rail.
One of the crappy things about owning the business is having to deal with the "business" end of the administration. This means trips back to the mainland to deal with taxes, immigration, reports, wages etc. etc. On one particular trip back this year, I received an email from Alice who was still on the island shooting photos. "I really miss you, and you really missed Rifles..." with this photo of Jamie attached. Now, for those of you who have spent any time with me know my attitude towards this wave, and you'll also know how much it killed me to be in the city while this was happening 85 miles off the coast. I've subsequently tracked down video footage from that day. Check it out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6nMfBU0kj4
I don't feel the need to comment on this one. You're welcome.
Another Rifles gem. I don't know who this guy is, but he got the shot of the day.
Martin Potter was part of the Quiksilver crew that came out to the islands and showed us why they are/were world champions. I had already decided to buy a retro fish for exactly these conditions, and when Martin faded his bottom turn and flew up into this shack, I knew that my shaper would be getting an email very shortly.
For me this sums up a daily part of my life on the island. Sunset, just got back from a surf in glassy conditions. Our boat driver Im headed home for dinner. Just another Mentawai day done and dusted.
What can be said about this man? 9x world champ. Upside down for the photographer over shallow reef at Hideaways. Look how far he's travelled from where he's launched! Imagine the speed he must of had to make it that far! Here's hoping he goes for 10 like he went for this air...
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