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April 3rd

As a surf guide it's these moments that I live for.  Believe it or not, I'm not out here to get myself the best waves of my life (although that happens regularly anyway).  I'm doing my job if my guests are getting the best waves of their lives.  This includes giving tips to those who are looking to improve, and this photo represents a complete breakthrough for Mr. Hall.  Welcome to the rest of your life Stephen, you're gonna get shacked from here on out, and make me proud in the process.

April 2nd

We had some visitors to our beach today from Venezuela.  To have 6 scantily clad girls on our beach at the same time happens about as often as two full moons in one month, which FYI, is also called a Blue Moon.  Here they are setting up their self portrait.

April 1st

Early morning secret spot saw Stephen and crew up with fresh muffins and coffee in hand by 6:30.  Good call as the wind came up southerly early and blew it all to shreds.  Just 4 guys enjoying a little peak, glassly, perfect, fun.  We sometimes play a game: How many guys would be out at your home break if it looked like this?

March 31st

I was going through some older photos the other day and came across this beauty from 2 years ago.  It reminds me of that season, especially looking at the flag on the speedboat.  We had incessant southerly winds from June - October, and although we didn't much enjoy the channel crossings to the airport, it was a pleasure to wake up every morning and see Hideaways offshore for like the 50th day in a row.

March 30th

Same comment as March 29th, for want of anything more fitting.

March 29th

Take a look around you and think about all the things you take for granted.  The natural beauty that surrounds your daily life can be lost in the shuffle.  If you're lucky, the sunlight, moonlight or wind will bring to your attention the things you've been missing.

March 28th

Here is Alice modeling one of our new kayaks out in the bay with empty low tide hideaways breaking in the background.  It was a beautiful day to check out the wildlife and get some exercise, not to mention a tan.  I think the families showing up later this season will be stoked to do some exploring on these kiwi creations.

March 27th

Ahh, such is the chaos of the Mentawais sometimes.  The Spaniards in the foreground are both filming their ship mates burning each other.  Must make for interesting dinner conversation: "Ha ha, when you dropped in on me amigo, my board went over the falls and into my head.  Muy bien, gracious!!"

March 26th

Here is Stephen in the zone.  He somehow managed to get into this position on only 2 fins, while he third was dangling by a thread underwater.  His ripped rashguard is evidence of the collision with his own board, and shortly after this he turned his board over and found a big piece of yellow fabric stuck under his fin!  Maybe he should have a fin dragging everyday!

March 25th

Martin is the only guest on the island at the moment that hasn't been here before.  He hadn't gone right until he got here, and today was the first time going left in the Mentawais.  "This is a perfect wave by anybody's standards", he reckons.  It's always nice for me to get reminded of that, because our return guests just come to expect it, and I don't even realize how good the waves are anymore.

March 24th

It was a little difficult to get this shot with only one of our boats in the water.

March 23rd

We gaurantee you we have the best coffee in all of West Sumatra.  Welcome, "Miss Silvia", to our slice of paradise, and prepared to be enjoyed daily.

March 22nd

Here's Im, our boat driver, surf guide and all around dependable cat scoring Rifles.  It has been a pleasure to watch Im improve his surfing, and the guests have taken notice and have kicked him down a couple boards that are suited to his ability. You can guarantee that if you ever donate a board to any kid anywhere, it is a life changing event.  

March 21st

Robert broke his favourite 6'6 out at Rifles.  Not a happy camper, but got to log a couple beauties in the memory banks before the fateful fall. I'm guessing he could ask any one of you reading this; If you could trade a surfboard for 3 hours at Rifles with only one other person out, would you do it?  What is your answer?

March 20th

I'm really surprised that the fish allows me to do harder and faster turns with more holding power than the thruster. If you had asked me a couple weeks ago, I would have said it wasn't possible.  I can come out of this turn with enough speed to make it around the next section, and at Rifles that's saying something. Go the twinny!

March 19th

First photo shoot from the look-out for 2009. The view is as good ever! Not a WavePark guest, but you can tell he already has Hideaways figured out.

March 18th

Robert spends a couple months a year on the island and is constantly reducing the size of his boards. I've also recently converted him to my shaper, Shane Stoneman from Cayucos, California.  Here is Robert at Hideaways today enjoying the maneuverability and and forgiveness of Shane's patented rail shape.

March 17th

Here is our new and improved beach furniture. In May of 2007 a huge swell unearthed a log that had been buried in the beach for at least 15 years.  We brought out a skilled logger with his chainsaw to turn the log into slabs which we used primarily for the bench seats on the front of the new bungalows.  The 2 ends that were split were cut off and I had them carved into chairs.  The two ends of the logs allowed us 8 of these chairs.  The log was huge!  They weren't very comfortable for the 2008 season, but we've had time to refine and retouch, and I can attest that aside from the view you get sitting in these babies, the location is worth the trip in itself, and they are now comfy...

March 16th

Rifles on a fun off season day, just myself out.  This was one of the 4 surfs that I had between November 9th and mid-Feb.  People assume that being a surf resort owner means you get to surf everyday, life is a breeze, things must just fall into place... Hard to explain that friends living the 9 to 5 surf more than I do (in the off season), but these are the moments I live for.  My favourite wave, and I can pick whatever set wave I want!

March 15th

Another sunset on the beach with my dog.

March 14th

I bought a new 12-24mm lens and today the elements all came together to try and show how comfortable the bungalows are.  Beautiful sunny afternoon, empty beach, killer porch to hang out on and watch the guests surf hideaways to themselves.

March 13th

I've been riding the 5'10 fish exclusively since the new year.  I don't yet trust it backside except it has an amazing amount of speed for getting around sections.  My hand pinching the rail here at Ebay makes sure I'm stuck to my board regardless of what the 2 fins decide to do.

March 12th

It's true what they say.  Sometimes patience does pay off.  Alice and I trawled for 40 minutes before she hooked up this 14kg spanish mackerel.  We're so thankful to get a fish like this, and not an ounce will go to waste. 

March 11th

 

It's Alice's picture, but I'll gladly blog it:  This is the first sunset of the 2009 season, and what a whiz bang start!  Sitting on the beach, enjoying a cold beer, tired from a channel crossing and the day's work.  Looking forward to more like this one, soon.  Thanks for tuning in, and spread the word, SHOT OF THE DAY IS ON AGAIN!